Why Shiseido Ultimune Has Been in My Routine for Over 7 Years
Product photography by Perkin Gotohio
Lately I’ve been thinking about how I go for high-end skincare products in my routine. As someone who’s had experience in skincare product development, I know exactly how much raw materials cost. Honest, in many cases, the price is justified. For example, a P1,000-per-kilo Vitamin C active is worlds apart from a patented one that costs P20,000 per kilo. The more expensive one is usually more effective, works faster, and is more stable. So it’s rare for me to use drugstore skincare unless it’s something simple like a cleanser, which is pretty straightforward and doesn’t require hard-hitting actives.
The Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Serum (P6,450 / 50 mL and P5,450 for the refill) is something I’ve used every single day for at least seven years now. When people ask me why, here’s what I say: I’ve tried so many skincare products in my 17-year career as a beauty editor, but this is the only one that consistently keeps my skin supple, smooth, and even. When I stop using it, my face starts to feel a bit rough, a bit dull. There’s just a noticeable difference.
Now if you ask me how it works, I can’t give you a full breakdown. Shiseido doesn’t exactly highlight specific actives in Ultimune. What they do instead is invest in creating proprietary raw materials in their labs, often blending several ingredients together into a patented complex. It’s not a single hero ingredient, as it’s designed to be a whole system.
Shiseido has recently unveiled an enhanced formulation of their iconic Ultimune Power Infusing Serum, placing a significant emphasis on the benefits of fermentation technology. Central to this innovation is the Power Fermented Camellia+ complex, developed through the traditional Japanese ki-koji bio-fermentation process. This method amplifies the amino acid content in camellia seeds by 3.4 times, enhancing their efficacy in skincare applications.
The brand utilizes virtually every part of the camellia plant sourced from Gotoh Island, including:
Camellia Seed Extract: Obtained by upcycling the strained lees of camellia seeds, this extract is rich in antioxidants, offering protective benefits against environmental stressors.
Camellia Leaf Extract: Helps protect the skin from the effects of excess sebum due to dryness, contributing to a balanced complexion.
Camellia Flower Extract: Supports the skin barrier by improving the stratum corneum’s resistance, enhancing the skin's resilience.
Camellia Seed Oil: Provides moisture with its emollient properties, aiding in maintaining skin hydration.
Compared to the old formula, the new Shiseido Ultimune has a noticeably richer texture. It’s creamier, more hydrating, and just feels more comforting on the skin. I love how it now delivers an instant glow, too. There are micro-shimmers suspended in the serum—not the chunky kind, don’t worry!—and while you barely notice them at first, in bright light you’ll catch that extra glimmer. It gives the skin a subtle luminosity that looks fresh, not glittery.
Overall, I’m quite pleased with this upgrade. I’ve always believed in Ultimune’s ability to maintain my skin’s health and smoothness, and now with the fermented camellia complex and the upgraded formula, it feels like Shiseido has leveled it up without losing what made it special. I’ll definitely be keeping this in my routine.
Shiseido also offers refills, in line with their sustainability efforts
